Free 3D RC Glider Templates
This post is for all those who want to learn how to create functional, amazing designs to print their very own 3D RC gliders. It’s also possible to design and print useful repair parts with fewer problems and more reliably when you follow instructions and – of course – if your heart is really in it. Check out our fully 3D printable glider models.
How to Build a Stratos Glider?
We’ll begin with this glider jet toy, which is fully 3D aerodynamic. To explore its capabilities to the fullest possible extent, you’ll need a launcher and a rubber band (8″ x 1/8″).
Image source: Thingiverse
Your 3D printer must be able to print smooth 1 and 2 layer designs. To achieve solid layers without curling or surface debris, adjust your first layer accordingly. Try to “beard” version if you have trouble with prints lifting, i.e. cut off the “beard” at the end. Fill ratio is as important as layer height. The CG will change if you raise the fill ratio for the fuselage. The optimal layer height is .20. It’s OK if your setting is somewhere around there. However, you can use a factor of .2mm if you want thinner layers. A .5 nozzle is fine, but around .3 mm is best. Adjust the perimeters if your nozzle is below that.
How to Build a Monarch Glider?
This traditional, efficient glider is perfect for long glides and looping flights. We made it from ABS plastic, 2 perimeters, .15mm layers, 25% fill, 2 solid layers, and filament of approx. 1100 mm.
The first layer is produced lengthwise with zero degrees to fuselage. Then, you can follow up with 90 degree alternation. Under load, an angle that is different from 90 degrees will result in asymmetrical wing warping.
Before removing from build platform (carefully), let cool. It is easy to deform the wings during removal, which need to be completely symmetrical to ensure proper flight. It’s best to remove them with a very thin plastic spatula. Using a tiny dab of CA glue, test-fit all parts and trim before final assembly if needed.
Launch this glider using a 1/16″ rubber band or by hand. To adjust and test, launch by hand first. You need a slight elevator – up motion for non-inverted flight. You achieve this by latching the elevation controls on the aft end of the fuselage up on the relex tabs. A bit of glue will keep them from moving from their latched position.
We recommend a gradual testing and adjusting cycle. To correct spiraling or turning, differential elevator control is best. However, your ailerons might need some bending if the wings have become deformed due to wrong removal.
What Else do I Need to Know About 3D Printing?
Often, it helps to use a slightly higher temperature than normal (over 37 degrees C) for the first layer to improve print leveling and adhesion and reduce nozzle pressure. Take care not to increase the temperature to the point where the thermoplastic starts to decompose because this can cause degraded print quality and nozzle clogging.
If you want to stay active in 3D printing, your bed surface will require the right adhesion properties. It has to be clean, flat, and free of skin oil. For PLA, Kapton adhesion is often subpar. You can improve it by dissolving a bit of ABS filament with the solvent swab and using the resulting mixture to wipe the bed surface down. For ABS, clean Kapton tape with pipe cleaner compound (CPVC-PVC-ABS).
Thank you for reading and enjoy printing RC gliders!