Make Your Own 3D RC Drone Model
3D Drone Models
3D drone models are an amazing way to visualize the 3-dimensionalities of an airborne vehicle. This article describes how to print some popular models. Please note: it’s one thing to print them and quite another to capture good images with them. Capturing oblique imagery is an art – oblique images are images photographed during a rotation around the desired object at short intervals at a fixed camera angle, fixed altitude, and fixed radius.
How Do I Make the T4 Quadcopter Drone?
You probably have heard of the T4 series, of which this drone is the most premiere member. It is fully 3D printable and simple to assemble. The strong arms provide lots of space to hide motor wiring. You can use a single motor arm or T6 coaxial arms to make an X8. The drone is designed for a single battery (3S or 4S) at the heart of the thrust / rotation. There is plenty of room to mount ESCs – hidden but still well ventilated. Cable routing is easy thanks to beveled cable tunnels.
Check out our 3D Printed Racing Drones over here.
What components do I need?
Here is the list:
· 1 body (147 grams, 8.5 hour print*)
· 4 arms (40 grams, 2 hour print each*)
· 1 top plate (35 grams, 1.75 hour print*)
· 1 battery peg
· 1 bottom tray (52 grams, 2.9 hour print*)
· 8 M3 x ~5mm bolts (motors to arms)
· 8 M3 x 40mm+ bolts (arms to body)
· 8 M3 Nyloc nuts and washers
· Approx 3mm x 10mm self-tapping screws (attach top plate and bottom tray)
· Anti-vibration gel
· Foam to pad battery compartments
· Rubber bands to mount camera and flight controller
· Cable ties
· Double-sided adhesive foam tape to add other electronics
· Connectors and soldering gear
· 4 motors (850kv or 880kv)
· 2 pusher propellers and 2 normal propellers
· 4 in 1 ESC or 4 20A+ ESC speed controllers
· 1 3DR power module (or BEC – often built in to your ESCs)
· 1 power distribution assembly
· 1 3S (up to 6000mah) or 4S (up to 4200mah) battery
· 1 Radio control receiver
· 1 flight controller
All the parts are printed in PLA, 3 top/bottom layers and 2 shells, and 0.25mm layers with 40% infill. It’s OK to play around with it, but these settings are optimal.
A firm press fit is provided if you have 0.1mm clearance between the socket and arm. If the fit seems too tight, light sanding may help, but your tolerance should be kept down to a minimum.
Printing the “Oblivion” (from the eponymous movie)
You’ll need the following parts:
· 1 drone front half and 1 back half
· Four engines: main, secondary, tertiary, and quaternary
· 2 inner gun sections and 2 outer gun sections
· 1 faceplate
· 2 linkage mounts
· 2 linkage v4
There are holes in the front and back half pieces for a bit of extra filament to hold the glue better and to use for alignment. You can use any old PVA glue, like Glue-All, to hold the pieces together. Alternatively, you could use super glue (cyanoacrylate).
· Printer: Wanhao Duplicator i3
· Resolution: 100 microns
· Supports: Yes
· Rafts: No
· Infill: 20% (other options possible – see what works)
You don’t need infill to print the front and back halves. Plus, you save on filament. The two halves are semi circle arches, so they will require support. They are the only parts that will need support. The rest, as they say, is history.3D printing has taken off for quite a few reasons – it’s fun, easy, and aspiring pilots can print parts the exact size they want. You won’t get good results without effort, though. Download our free templates to adjust your 3D printer settings as needed and get cracking. More information about this and in general about RC drones is available here.